ANREALAGE
AUTUMN/WINTER 2023-24 COLLECTION
“ = ”

等しい二つの世界。
異なる二つの世界。

私たちには世界がどう見えているか。
彼らは世界をどう見ているか。

等しく異なる世界を纏う。

【環世界 ー 等しく異なる世界】
「他の生物に世界はどう見えているだろう？」
彼らから見える世界を想像してみると、私たち人間が見ている世界が当たり前ではないことに気づかされる。

アンリアレイジの2023-24年秋冬コレクションのテーマは“＝（イコール）”。
19世紀のドイツの哲学者・生物学者であるヤーコプ・フォン・ユクスキュルが唱えた「環世界」の概念を表現する。

ユクスキュルは人間が「見て」いながら「知覚していない」世界があるという。

他の生物は、人間と同じ世界に居ながら、人間とは違う世界を見ている。
人間と色合いの違う世界に生き、多彩な色の世界に遊んでいる。

例えば、人間は「可視光線」に含まれる色で世界を見ているのに対し、ミツバチやモンシロチョウなどは人間の眼では捉えられない「紫外線」の光を見ることができる。
光を受け取る知覚機能が異なることで、見える色も世界も変わる。

他の生物が周りの世界をどう見ているかという「彼ら視点」は、ファッションの色とかたちを相対的に考えていく際に欠かせない。

フォトクロミック材料を用いた光で色が変わる服は、人間の眼には色が見えていないだけで、他の生物には、もともと違う色に見えているかもしれない。

音の反響や触覚など、視覚以外の感覚でかたちを捉えようとしたとき、その世界に「前」や「後ろ」の概念はない。
どちらも前であり、どちらも後ろであるように、前も後ろも同じかたちであることが、当たり前であるかもしれない。

ファッションは視覚こそがすべてだと考えてきた。
見えている、見えてないという大きい世界があって、その世界でしかないとおもっていた。

自分が見ている色やかたちはあくまで自分の主観であって、全く違う視点からはどう見えるのか。

私たちには世界がどう見えているか。
彼らは世界をどう見ているか。

Two equal worlds.
Two different worlds.

How we see the world.
How they see the world.

Wear equal.
But not equal.

For Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Anrealage uses fashion to explore the evolution of human perception and how every living organism — no matter how simple or complex — inhabits a world of its own.


UMWELT
A scientist of fashion, Kunihiko Morinaga presents his own wearable take on Umwelt (German for ‘environment’ or ‘surround-world’), a 19th-century concept developed by the German philosopher and biologist Jakob Johann Baron von Uexküll that explores how living beings perceive their environment.

The way different organisms perceive the world through sensory data is not “=.” Seeing nature through the eyes of an insect, for instance, reminds us that things aren’t necessarily what they seem. A yellow flower, and the Umwelt for bees which can see in the ultraviolet spectrum differs sharply from that of a human’s perception of that flower. To help target areas of nectar, the color of the flower’s center is an intense reddish-purple for the bee, while other parts are monochrome.

For Kunihiko Morinaga, opening our eyes to the concept of different Umwelten serves as a metaphor for the need to celebrate diversity. “We are all one race, even if how I see my world is not equal to how you see your world,” he says.


A NEW MATERIALITY
With a collection blending classic ‘50s-inspired shapes and futuristic materials that change color when exposed to natural sunlight (UV rays), Anrealage expands its portfolio of experimental photochromic materials produced in-house, adding faux fur, velvet, lace, knit, jacquard and satin. New color developments for looks include a yellow, beige, red, and light blue that morph into other shades in UV light. As the intensity of natural sunlight is ever-changing, the colors are constantly shifting. These garments return to their original color in around three minutes when no longer exposed to the UV rays.

Seemingly “=,” silhouettes have no front or back. Instead, looks are based on “front/front” or “back/back” constructions, with symmetrical/asymmetrical forms highlighting Kunihiko Morinaga’s mastery of pattern-cutting.


WEARABLE UMWELT
Pushing photochromic technology to new levels, Morinaga takes the ethereal concept of the flower-woman to its most radical reality in human perception.

Pristine white looks, such as a satin dress with a giant crochet collar and pleated skirt, a lace jumpsuit, or a sculpted faux-fur high-neck dress, as well as velvet cocoon coats and dresses with petal collars, shift into another tonal range, thanks to photosensitive colors that are designed to evolve through the days and seasons, coexisting with nature and the environment.

To the deceptively simple melody and rhythm of Ravel’s Boléro, “front/front” and “back/back” versions of outfits appear side by side, slowly changing into contrasting (or unequal) colors — one turning pink, the other blue — as ultraviolet light scans their surface. Looks slowly evolve through a variety of forms and colors evoking Earth’s wondrous biological diversity, while the light also awakens textural fabrics woven with graphic patterns like stripes, checks, polka dots, delicate floral embroidery or the Anrealage logo.

Accessories range from oversized corsages to photochromic shoes designed in collaboration with RECOUTURE.

At this crucial tipping point in world history, the collection also serves as a manifesto for the preservation of nature and biodiversity, drawing scientific inspiration into a new narrative imbued with poetic ingenuity.

For the fashion world and beyond, it’s time to push beyond the limits of our Umwelten, our subjective realities; to open up our receptors to different points of view and to things that exist beyond what we can perceive. To celebrate the rich variety of world views as being “=” to our own.

Designer: Kunihiko Morinaga(ANREALAGE)
Show Direction: Shige Kaneko @shigekaneko.co.ltd
Stylist: TEPPEI @stylist_teppei
Hair: Natsumi Ebiko @natsumiebiko
Make Up: Ai Nieda (SHISEIDO) @ai_n_____
Casting Director: SYLVIE GUEGUEN @sgueguen
Press: Nathalie Ours (PR CONSULTING) @prconsulting
Press: Shin Yamada @shin1551
Coordinate: Hiromi otsuka @hiromiotsuka
Production: Eyesight @eyesightgroup
Lighting Design: Pascal Maucuit
Movie: Hisashi Abe (STUDIO 44)
Movie: Cowya
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supported by NTT
@nttgroup_official
supported by Cotton ∞